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15oz - MIJ9 "Tennen Ai" Natural Indigo Slub Selvedge - Super Guy
Naked & Famous - MIJ9 "Tennen Ai" Natural Indigo Slub Selvedge - Super Guy
* Live Friday 11/12 at 11am EST. *
Tommy speaking here. I personally wait for the MIJ every year. I've made it a point to collect specifically these jeans because I think it's not only Naked & Famous's best denim but one of the best Japanese cut and sew pairs on the market. I think they pay attention to tall the right details. I think they pay homage to traditionalist Japanese standards, but don't let it hold them back from the best design. I honestly think they're the best pair of denim we carry every year. They're not for everyone, but if I had to choose one pair to wear for the rest of my life...it would be a pair of MIJ. Tommy out.
Every year, Naked & Famous outdoes themselves. It feels like the entire year is a ramp-up to the MIJ. It's the perfect combination of factors and details making a pair of denim that we swear "glows." This round is a "Tennen Ai" which is what has previously been referred to as "Kasuri" in other pairs. "Tennen Ai" translates to natural indigo. There is an entire crowd of denim heads out there that won't wear anything else. These are fades that usually only are described as "vintage."
This round, they've chosen to use different dye lots to create this insane vertical pattern. You'll also notice quite a lot of crunch. This is accomplished through their "Tempi" treatment. We love the texture of unsanforized denim, but not always the volatility. The one rinse treatment removes all of that (trust us, we've had multiple pairs of these and they simply don't shrink). You'll also notice the proprietary iron rivets that will age and patina with the denim. You'll see the same character arise from the pure copper rivets, both the regular ones you see on the outside and the hidden back pocket ones. Topping the pair off is a trifecta of minute details in the embroidered maple leaf, the skinny pink selvedge id, and the "peek-a-boo" coin pocket. These overall are a winner. They're hands down our go-to pick if you were to buy just one pair this season.
- 15oz Unsanforized "Tempi Treated" Natural Indigo Selvedge
- Iron N&F Branded Buttons
- Pure Copper Rivets
- Hidden Back Pocket Rivets
- "Peek-a-boo" Selvedge Coin Pocket
- Pink Selvedge ID
- Embroider Back Pocket Maple Leaf
- Custom Japanese Artwork Pocket Flasher
- Fly Placket Cut On Selvedge
- Raised Belt Loops
- Dual Color Contrast Stitching
- Dyed, Woven, Cut, Sewn, Built in Japan.
A variance of +/-5" is within tolerance.
Fit Notes: Fit Notes: The Super Guy is a skinny fit with a medium rise, a slim top block, and a taper from knee to hem. Shop owner Tommy is wearing a size 31. This is his keystone size from Naked & Famous. Sometimes he is able to size down one. That is not the case here. We highly recommend you stick with your true size. The fabric is loosely woven and stretches very easily, so if you want a tight-fitting pair you may be able to size down. Scope the measurements for the most accurate fit. Tommy is 5'10" and 165lbs with a 32-33" waist.
The "Zero" fabric has been on our radar from the beginning. It's one of, if not the most famous Samurai denim. This is the original 5-button edition. They love this one so much, they send out stickers and pins to commemorate it. This fabric was first introduced in 2004 after a long development period. It broke many looms and many needles along the way. It is their tried and true. They've used an uneven No. 5 yarn for both the warp and weft for maximum fading potential. These things have a sh*tton of character. They finished it off with the gold and red selvedge ticker. We can not wait to see these fade.
The "Zero" fabric has been on our radar from the beginning. It's one of, if not the most famous Samurai denim. Well, this round they've done it with the zipper - another thing not often seen from Samurai. This is no ordinary zipper, it's a Scoville "Gripper" zipper. This fabric was first introduced in 2004 after a long development period. It is their tried and true. They've used an uneven No. 5 yarn for both the warp and weft for maximum fading potential. They finished it off with the gold and red selvedge ticker.
You already know if Samurai produces anything, they're not playing around. So would they do a chino any lighter than 15oz? Most likely not. These things are bonkers. They honestly might as well be a pair of olive selvedge denim, but they have a chino cut. The metallic silver Lamé selvedge line will make them feel even more so like your favorite pair of jeans. These might be unsanforized, but they've had a factory wash to alleviate almost all of that shrinkage. We simply had to see what a Chino from Samurai would look like, and we weren't disappointed. We absolutely love the fabric and we're enamored with the looser, super comfy fit. This is a wardrobe starter for guys looking to get out of their super tight selvedge denim.
How could we say no to these jeans? They have custom hardware designed to pay homage to jeans from the 1940s/50s. Their Otokogi denim is 100% Texas cotton known for its rough texture and impeccable vintage fading qualities. It's a short fibre cotton that creates the rough texture you see. Normally, those fibers are removed to make the cotton smooth, but Samarui adds more to ramp it up even more. They've also used 100% Texas cotton sewing throughout, something we rarely see these days. This denim is for the purist at heart. As the denim is spun at a high tension, even post soak/wash they will become even more stiff (luckily they're only 15oz to start, and not 25). This will result in some of the best fading denim on the planet.
We are absolutely blown back by this fabric. For one, it's not your traditional wabash stripe. They've used throwing stars for the pattern - an incredible idea. To us, the raw fabric is pretty contrasting up front. It can be hard to imagine how it will age. But luckily, they've done that for us and we think it takes the perfect amount of sting out of that contrast. It makes this shirt perfect for comfort and aesthetics up front. That's all not to mention that it's an indigo x black denim. That's what gives this shirt is beautiful, deep, shadowy indigo color. And if you look on the inside, you'll notice the fabric is a few shades darker...so when you roll up your cuffs you get to see that wonderful character. This shirt is simply stunning. We're so glad we brought it to the shop.