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B-01 Slim - 13oz Blue Flame BT Selvedge
Benzak - B-01 Slim - 13oz Blue Flame BT Selvedge
Man...picking between the trifecta of denim we're releasing in our initial Benzak launch is going to be no easy task. It's hard to say this, but of the three this might just be the most unique. I mean, it's call secret "blue flame" denim. The variation in color you see is achieved through a secret process that allows certain parts of the denim to be less penetrated than others. You've also got that iconic broken twill construction implemented by early denim companies to keep the leg from twisting. It creates a unique, almost herringbone-like pattern you'll see when you flip the cuff. These things are packed full of details listed below and could wind up being one of the best pairs of denim of the year. You won't find anything quite so unique for some time.
DETAILS
- 13 oz. 100% Cotton Japanese selvedge denim
- secret ‘blue flame’ dyeing technique
- slim fit / slim tapered legs
- fabric woven by Kurabo in Japan
- 100% cotton
- broken twill
- unwashed, sanforized (pre-shrunk)
- hidden 6th pocket
- chain stitched bottom hems
- tucked beltloops
- vegetable tanned leather patch (origin: Italy)
- cotton-poly core-spun heavy-duty stitching
- 100% stainless steel buttons
- 100% copper rivets
- button fly
- indigo dyed bull embroidery
- indigo dyed bartacks & buttonholes
- ecru pocket bags (cotton-poly, for extra durability)
- woven labels with 100% cotton base & polyester detailing
- red selvedge ticker
- made in Portugal
| 28 | 29 | 30 | 31 | 32 | 33 | 34 | 36 | 38 | |
| WAIST (INCHES) | 30.5 | 31.5 | 32.5 | 33.5 | 34.4 | 35.4 | 36.4 | 38.4 | 40.4 |
| THIGH (INCHES) | 11.5 | 11.8 | 12.1 | 12.4 | 12.7 | 13 | 13.3 | 13.9 | 14.5 |
| KNEE (INCHES) | 7.3 | 7.5 | 7.7 | 7.9 | 8.1 | 8.3 | 8.5 | 8.9 | 9.3 |
| BOTTOM (INCHES) | 6.3 | 6.5 | 6.7 | 6.9 | 7.1 | 7.3 | 7.5 | 7.9 | 8.3 |
| FRONT RISE (INCHES) | 9.8 | 10 | 10.2 | 10.4 | 10.6 | 10.8 | 11 | 11.4 | 11.8 |
| BACK RISE (INCHES) | 13.9 | 14.2 | 14.5 | 14.8 | 15.1 | 15.4 | 15.6 | 16.2 | 16.8 |
| INSEAM (INCHES) | 34.1 | 34.1 | 34.1 | 34.1 | 34.1 | 34.1 | 34.1 | 34.1 | 34.1 |
A variance of .25" is within standard tolerance.
Fit Notes: Shop owner Tommy is wearing a size 30 in the images. His typical size is a 31, but these seem to fit just a little bigger. The curved waistband and rise make these instantly comfortable in the top block. The best part is that they still taper nicely to the ankle. Overall, these seem a lot like a "goldilocks" fit to us. It seems to fit everyone. Tommy is 5'10," 170lbs with a 32.5-33" true waist measurement.
Apparel
The last time we saw this flannel it was dyed with Kakishibu. We didn't think that could be topped, but you know how much we love mud. Amami Dorozome is an age-old process done on the island of Amami-Oshima in Japan. It's a blend of mud and vegetable oil that creates rich earth tones in a washed-out, well-worn pigment only achievable through this process. In a traditional cotton check pattern such as this, it shines its brightest. We didn't get our hands on this personally last time, but we aren't going to let this one slip through our fingers.
The last time we saw this flannel it was dyed with Kakishibu. We didn't think that could be topped, but you know how much we love mud. Amami Dorozome is an age-old process done on the island of Amami-Oshima in Japan. It's a blend of mud and vegetable oil that creates rich earth tones in a washed-out, well-worn pigment only achievable through this process. In a traditional cotton check pattern such as this, it shines its brightest. We didn't get our hands on this personally last time, but we aren't going to let this one slip through our fingers.
These guys keep one-upping the Sashiko game every year. We didn't get a chance to see these in person, but we're so glad we picked them up. They are so much better than we could've even imagined. At first sight, they look like a denim pant lined with a hickory stipe screen print. Then, we got close up and realized it was the vertical sashiko creating that line work. The hand-feel after the one-wash is beyond soft, but they're still packed with so much color you're still going to get those incredible highs and lows in the knees. The great part about sashiko is you get varied high points throughout the garment that catch wear in a different way. The inspiration for sashiko garments derives from the Japanese sashiko which never truly died. They would use pieces of the last garment to create the new, hand stitching throughout. Well, they've taken this concept and created a modern work of art. They've used a combination of No.6 warp and No.5 weft yarns on specially calibrated Jacquards looms. Their hope is to replicate the Sashiko stitchwork of the kimonos, and we'd say they've accomplished that pretty damn well.
These guys keep one-upping the Sashiko game every year. We didn't get a chance to see these in person, but we're so glad we picked them up. They are so much better than we could've even imagined. At first sight, they look like a denim pant lined with a hickory stipe screen print. Then, we got close up and realized it was the vertical sashiko creating that line work. The hand-feel after the one-wash is beyond soft, but they're still packed with so much color you're still going to get those incredible highs and lows in the knees. The great part about sashiko is you get varied high points throughout the garment that catch wear in a different way. The inspiration for sashiko garments derives from the Japanese sashiko which never truly died. They would use pieces of the last garment to create the new, hand stitching throughout. Well, they've taken this concept and created a modern work of art. They've used a combination of No.6 warp and No.5 weft yarns on specially calibrated Jacquards looms. Their hope is to replicate the Sashiko stitchwork of the kimonos, and we'd say they've accomplished that pretty damn well.
The only thing that could've improved this serge western was a new color. This one was originally called Mocha Brown, which we think is very suitable. It's this rich color that suits this now iconic shirt. It used to be that we rarely saw green from Iron Heart, but now green is a staple. So, we've been super stoked to see khakis and browns rearing their pretty heads. You can't go wrong with the western cut, unless you don't size up, as it has some absolutely gorgeous details. We love the yokes and Permex buttons the most on these beauties.
