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IHJ-54-BLK - Japanese Horsehide Rider’s Jacket With Collar - Black (Tea-Core Dyed)
Iron Heart - Japanese Horsehide Rider's Jacket with Collar - Black (Tea-Core Dyed)
Well, if we were going to get into leathers from Iron Heart, we were always going to start with a bang. This absolutely gobsmackingly good leather riders jacket has the kind of translucent shine you really only get from horsehide. This beauty is a black tea-core dye, meaning that as you wear it and that shine fades a bit, you'll start to see the natural browns of the leather poke through. We've seen this effect before, and trust us, it's mesmerizing. It's the type of antiquing everyone wants, but you can only get from the right kinds of leather. That all starts with this super soft chrome tanned horsehide from Himeji, the tanning capital of Japan. All the finishing touches that make this jacket iconic "Iron Heart" quality are listed below. The real story starts a few wears down the road when this thing starts to age to perfection.
- Made in Japan
- Chrome tanned horsehide from a tiny tannery in Himeji, which is the tanning capital of Japan
- Tea-core dyed, so the leather underneath the surface is brown, not black. Over time, this brown core will become visible in high-wear areas
- Hides vary between 1.2 and 1.6mm, and are chosen on a panel by panel basis
- Because it is chrome tanned it has an initial shine
- The nicest horsehide we have ever seen from any tannery anywhere
- Black cotton duck lining
- Action bi-swing pleated shoulders
- 2 internal pockets with snap closures
- Lined side pockets
- YKK two-way main zipper
- YKK zippered gussets at cuffs and hips
- YKK zippered breast pockets
| Size | S | M | L | XL | XXL | XXXL | XXXXL |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Shoulders | 18.2 | 18.9 | 19.7 | 20.5 | 21.0 | 21.5 | 22.0 |
| Length | 25.1 | 25.5 | 26.0 | 26.7 | 27.4 | 28.0 | 28.4 |
| Chest (P2P) | 20.2 | 21.2 | 22.2 | 23.2 | 23.9 | 24.5 | 25.7 |
| Waist | 17.9 | 19.0 | 19.5 | 20.8 | 21.7 | 22.6 | 23.0 |
| Opening - Unzipped | 20.7 | 22.0 | 22.8 | 23.2 | 24.4 | 25.4 | 25.9 |
| Opening - Zipped | 18.0 | 19.0 | 19.2 | 20.5 | 22.0 | 22.5 | 23.9 |
| Sleeve Length | 25.2 | 25.3 | 25.7 | 26.8 | 27.2 | 27.5 | 28.2 |
| Sleeve Opening | 4.6 | 4.8 | 5.0 | 5.2 | 5.3 | 5.7 | 5.8 |
A variance of +/-.5" is within tolerance.
Fit Notes: Shop owner Tommy is wearing a medium in this piece. We would recommend for anyone who already doesn't know their Iron Heart size to buy a size bigger than your normal choice. If you're a medium, go for a large. This piece is one of the truest examples of that. Tommy was barely able to fit into the medium, and while true riders want a leather jacket to be as snug as it is in the pictures, there is no way he was fitting a piece underneath for layering. If that's what you want, size up at least once. Check those measurements twice, as well. 99% of our returns are because an item is too small. Tommy is 5'10," 162lbs with a 40" chest.
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The last time we saw this flannel it was dyed with Kakishibu. We didn't think that could be topped, but you know how much we love mud. Amami Dorozome is an age-old process done on the island of Amami-Oshima in Japan. It's a blend of mud and vegetable oil that creates rich earth tones in a washed-out, well-worn pigment only achievable through this process. In a traditional cotton check pattern such as this, it shines its brightest. We didn't get our hands on this personally last time, but we aren't going to let this one slip through our fingers.
The last time we saw this flannel it was dyed with Kakishibu. We didn't think that could be topped, but you know how much we love mud. Amami Dorozome is an age-old process done on the island of Amami-Oshima in Japan. It's a blend of mud and vegetable oil that creates rich earth tones in a washed-out, well-worn pigment only achievable through this process. In a traditional cotton check pattern such as this, it shines its brightest. We didn't get our hands on this personally last time, but we aren't going to let this one slip through our fingers.
These guys keep one-upping the Sashiko game every year. We didn't get a chance to see these in person, but we're so glad we picked them up. They are so much better than we could've even imagined. At first sight, they look like a denim pant lined with a hickory stipe screen print. Then, we got close up and realized it was the vertical sashiko creating that line work. The hand-feel after the one-wash is beyond soft, but they're still packed with so much color you're still going to get those incredible highs and lows in the knees. The great part about sashiko is you get varied high points throughout the garment that catch wear in a different way. The inspiration for sashiko garments derives from the Japanese sashiko which never truly died. They would use pieces of the last garment to create the new, hand stitching throughout. Well, they've taken this concept and created a modern work of art. They've used a combination of No.6 warp and No.5 weft yarns on specially calibrated Jacquards looms. Their hope is to replicate the Sashiko stitchwork of the kimonos, and we'd say they've accomplished that pretty damn well.
These guys keep one-upping the Sashiko game every year. We didn't get a chance to see these in person, but we're so glad we picked them up. They are so much better than we could've even imagined. At first sight, they look like a denim pant lined with a hickory stipe screen print. Then, we got close up and realized it was the vertical sashiko creating that line work. The hand-feel after the one-wash is beyond soft, but they're still packed with so much color you're still going to get those incredible highs and lows in the knees. The great part about sashiko is you get varied high points throughout the garment that catch wear in a different way. The inspiration for sashiko garments derives from the Japanese sashiko which never truly died. They would use pieces of the last garment to create the new, hand stitching throughout. Well, they've taken this concept and created a modern work of art. They've used a combination of No.6 warp and No.5 weft yarns on specially calibrated Jacquards looms. Their hope is to replicate the Sashiko stitchwork of the kimonos, and we'd say they've accomplished that pretty damn well.
The only thing that could've improved this serge western was a new color. This one was originally called Mocha Brown, which we think is very suitable. It's this rich color that suits this now iconic shirt. It used to be that we rarely saw green from Iron Heart, but now green is a staple. So, we've been super stoked to see khakis and browns rearing their pretty heads. You can't go wrong with the western cut, unless you don't size up, as it has some absolutely gorgeous details. We love the yokes and Permex buttons the most on these beauties.
