TCB - S40's Jeans - Black x Black - One Wash

*Due to the limited nature of these jeans, we are potentially the only US dealer of the S40's in Black*

The best part of this denim, a reproduction of the 501xx, is all the minute details you wouldn't notice unless you had fully researched the original pairs. The first one is basically the entirety of the back pockets. To start, there are hidden rivets. You'll notice a wonky curve on the inner pocket stitch as it gets closer to the rivets. TCB's best guess is that this was done by a less skilled seamstress who wanted to give plenty of tolerance as to not hit the hidden rivets. Then, you'll notice on the bottom left of the back left pocket a stitch that overruns the edge of the pocket. This, by TCB's standards, would be a defect, and they would normally redo it. But, in this instance, they did it to mimic the original pair. On the right pocket you'll notice a tiny monkey stitch on the inner stitch. 

Next, you'll scope the belt loop details. On the WW2 pair, the belt loop starts with a bit of a gap from the top of the waistband. You'll also notice that the loops are a little wider, but the dual stitch runs with a narrow pattern. The space between the center stitch is filled, so it will fade very nicely as well. 

There are also some subtle details on the inside of the denim that parallels how the originals were done. On the right side of the denim, they used a single stitch with a yarn count thread of 6. On the left side, they used a chain stitch. Again, a mystery to TCB, but in order to reproduce these to their fullest, you'll find it in your pair as well. 

The fabric is a 14oz denim, that after careful examination of the original was mimicked by using EMOT Cotton (Eastern Memphis, New Orleans, and Texas). This style of denim uses hard twisted, slubby yarns which allow the dye to only penetrate so far into the cotton during rope dying. This will be extremely important when fading as to achieve that vintage look. Nowadays, people want a deeper whiteness to the core of the denim for purity. For this pair, and many of their other repros, they focus on keeping the core of the denim a more natural creamy color. All of this is woven on Toyoda shuttle looms in Kojima. 

(You may notice all the details are the same for this pair. That's because it's built just like the indigo s40's with a black x black weft.)

Vintage Details:

• 14oz EMOT Cotton
• One-Rinse
• Deerskin Leather Patch (Two Cats Design)
• Herringbone OD Green Pocket Bags
• Steel Made Laurel Wreath Top Button
• Steel Made Rivets
• Hidden Back Pocket Rivets
• 100% Cotton Sewing Threads
• "Goofy" Back Pocket Design
• Designed and Made in Kojima Japan

inches

A variance of +/- 0.5"  is within tolerance 

*Fit Notes: These jeans feature a high-rise and not much taper from the knee to leg opening. While not truly a straight cut, very close. Tommy is wearing a size 33 in the pictures and they fit spot on in the waist (he's normally a 32 from TCB).  It’s important to note that typically the waist measurement for high-rise styles tend to be smaller than what you are accustomed to seeing for mid or low-rise jeans. This is due to the fact that the waist isn’t sitting on your hip bones, a more rigid, less “squishy” part of your body. You’re able to size down a bit smaller since the waist will be located above this area of your waist. That being said, this pair is fitting tighter than the standard S40's. The one wash process shrank it more than they were expecting. 

According to Ryo at TCB, this fabric will relax quite a bit with several wears. Upon receiving your jeans, if you’re able to close the top button more than likely the waist will stretch to be a great fit. In other words, don’t be overly concerned about tightness at the beginning. The higher rise is great for those shorter-length, vintage cut jackets and tees.

Tommy is 5'10", 160lbs with between a 32-33" waist.