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"Chiodo" Horsehide Leather Jacket - Black
Shangri-La - "Chiodo" Horsehide Leather Jacket - Black
Early on, we were the only brand carrying leathers from Shangri-La in America. Since then, they've been very good at growing their brand slowly in America and we're now one of a very few with a selection in their leather goods. These guys trust us to represent the brand in America and we appreciate them thoroughly for that. This season, we've gone hard and as far as giving specifications on the grade of leather we want. The green liner on this blew us away. They've really stepped up their game with this latest series and we're excited as hell to have it.
Inspired by 1950s Motorcycle jackets and revisited with a unique Italian touch, the “Chiodo” Whisky Horsehide Leather Jacket represents an authentic garment made of Front Quarter Pull-up Horsehide by Charles F. Stead, one of the oldest tanneries in the UK (since 1890s in Leeds, United Kingdom). The Front Quarter Pull-up Horsehide by Charles F. Stead is made by selected European Full Grain horse hides tanned with Steads’ traditional garment tannage and finished with a blend of “classic pull-up” waxes. This produces a pure aniline leather with a Unique Rich character. Charles F. Stead is a traditional family business established in 1895, which remained faithful to the artisanal skills, techniques, and know-how that others have forgotten, taking the time to work the leathers in the traditional way. These skills continue to live on in harmony with modern production technologies. Quality leather can never be a commoditized product, with each hide having its own characteristics, and they treat it accordingly.
A double-breasted front provides an additional layer of protection to the chest, with a storm flap designed to keep water away from the body, protecting every Rider on the Storm. The most distinctive feature of the jacket, however, remains the legendary D-Pocket, also known as the “Gun,” or “Map” pocket. The lining is made of a Special Edition “Pied de Poule” in Forest Green color 100% Viscose.
Every Jacket comes in a high-quality 100% organic natural cotton Bag, laced with Havana rope and with screen printed logo.
- Leather: Front Quarter Full Grain Horsehide in Black color from Charles F. Stead (Leeds, UK)
- Lining: “Pied de Poule” in Forest Green color 100% viscose
- Zippers: antique brass with engraved markings
- 2 zipper front Pockets
- Slanted chest “Map” Pocket (D-Pocket)
- 1 zipper back Pocket
- 2 inside Pockets with antique brass snap buttons with engraved markings
- Pockets lining in Brown color 100% cotton
- Jacquard labels
- Hand Made in Italy
- Designed and tested in Bergamo, Northern Italian Alps
Fit Notes: Shop owner Tommy is wearing a size medium in the pictures. This piece, in comparison to the Café is a little bit less tailored. The arms have a bit more width and the body is built with more room. You can easily layer under this piece whether you choose to stick with your true size or size up one. Tommy is 5'10", 170lbs with a 40" chest.
The "Zero" fabric has been on our radar from the beginning. It's one of, if not the most famous Samurai denim. This is the original 5-button edition. They love this one so much, they send out stickers and pins to commemorate it. This fabric was first introduced in 2004 after a long development period. It broke many looms and many needles along the way. It is their tried and true. They've used an uneven No. 5 yarn for both the warp and weft for maximum fading potential. These things have a sh*tton of character. They finished it off with the gold and red selvedge ticker. We can not wait to see these fade.
The "Zero" fabric has been on our radar from the beginning. It's one of, if not the most famous Samurai denim. Well, this round they've done it with the zipper - another thing not often seen from Samurai. This is no ordinary zipper, it's a Scoville "Gripper" zipper. This fabric was first introduced in 2004 after a long development period. It is their tried and true. They've used an uneven No. 5 yarn for both the warp and weft for maximum fading potential. They finished it off with the gold and red selvedge ticker.
You already know if Samurai produces anything, they're not playing around. So would they do a chino any lighter than 15oz? Most likely not. These things are bonkers. They honestly might as well be a pair of olive selvedge denim, but they have a chino cut. The metallic silver Lamé selvedge line will make them feel even more so like your favorite pair of jeans. These might be unsanforized, but they've had a factory wash to alleviate almost all of that shrinkage. We simply had to see what a Chino from Samurai would look like, and we weren't disappointed. We absolutely love the fabric and we're enamored with the looser, super comfy fit. This is a wardrobe starter for guys looking to get out of their super tight selvedge denim.
How could we say no to these jeans? They have custom hardware designed to pay homage to jeans from the 1940s/50s. Their Otokogi denim is 100% Texas cotton known for its rough texture and impeccable vintage fading qualities. It's a short fibre cotton that creates the rough texture you see. Normally, those fibers are removed to make the cotton smooth, but Samarui adds more to ramp it up even more. They've also used 100% Texas cotton sewing throughout, something we rarely see these days. This denim is for the purist at heart. As the denim is spun at a high tension, even post soak/wash they will become even more stiff (luckily they're only 15oz to start, and not 25). This will result in some of the best fading denim on the planet.
We are absolutely blown back by this fabric. For one, it's not your traditional wabash stripe. They've used throwing stars for the pattern - an incredible idea. To us, the raw fabric is pretty contrasting up front. It can be hard to imagine how it will age. But luckily, they've done that for us and we think it takes the perfect amount of sting out of that contrast. It makes this shirt perfect for comfort and aesthetics up front. That's all not to mention that it's an indigo x black denim. That's what gives this shirt is beautiful, deep, shadowy indigo color. And if you look on the inside, you'll notice the fabric is a few shades darker...so when you roll up your cuffs you get to see that wonderful character. This shirt is simply stunning. We're so glad we brought it to the shop.