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N-1 Deck Jacket - Black, Kodiak
Dehen 1920 - N-1 Deck Jacket - Black, Kodiak.
The N-1 Jacket has very quickly become something we can hardly keep in stock. You guys asked for it, and we had to deliver. The Black/Brown combo seems to be an all-time favorite that we simply can't get over. We just want to stare at it all day. It's pretty stiff competition at the shop between jungle cloth and waxed canvas...so you'll have to be the decider. The waxed canvas is making a hell of a case for itself in black though...
The influence of WWII on our American culture is alive and well 70+ years after victory. Dehen 1920 introduced their very own and very special version of the Naval N-1 Deck Jacket. Constructed of a 10.10 oz. waxed canvas outer shell with a luxurious mouton fur lining, this jacket represents the very best they have to offer. Warmer and more substantial than anything in its class, this garment is built to last a lifetime. We can attest, this is the warmest thing in our closet.
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Dehen 1920 - N-1 Deck Jacket - Black, Kodiak
The N-1 Jacket has very quickly become something we can hardly keep in stock. You guys asked for it, and we had to deliver. The Black/Kodiak combo seems to be an all-time favorite that we simply can't get over. We just want to stare at it all day. It's pretty stiff competition at the shop between jungle cloth and waxed canvas...so you'll have to be the decider. The waxed canvas is making a hell of a case for itself in black though...
The influence of WWII on our American culture is alive and well 70+ years after victory. Dehen 1920 introduced their very own and very special version of the Naval N-1 Deck Jacket. Constructed of a 10.10 oz. waxed canvas outer shell with a luxurious mouton fur lining, this jacket represents the very best they have to offer. Warmer and more substantial than anything in its class, this garment is built to last a lifetime. We can attest, this is the warmest thing in our closet.
- 10.10 oz. waxed canvas shell
- Mouton fur lining and collar
- 6-Button placket-front closure with hidden #10 brass zipper with canvas pull
- Added inner left chest pocket with same #10 brass zipper and canvas pull
- 100% wool knit cuff
- Undercollar zig-zag stitching and neck closure
- Eyelets at underarm
| SIZE | CHEST | WAIST | SLEEVE |
| XS | 32 - 34" |
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A variance of +/-.5" is within tolerance.
Fit Notes: Our first impression is that Dehen fits with a more American cut (i.e. larger). We've been proven wrong with the past few pieces though. We would say this brand has one of the truest fits on the market, if that's possible. Shop owner Tommy is wearing a medium in the pictures. If you plan to layer at all with this jacket, stick with your true size. Tommy is 5'10," 162lbs with a 40" chest.
Apparel
Warehouse & Co. - Lot 2192 - Forty and Eight Horse Guard Jacket - Indigo.
The American Expeditionary Forces (AEF) played a pivotal role in the latter stages of World War I. Their journey to the Eastern Front involved a unique mode of transport known as the "Forty-and-Eights," railroad carts ingeniously converted into boxcars. These boxcars were labeled with a distinctive "40 plate," signifying their capacity for carrying "8 horses and 40 people." This intriguing symbol would go on to hold special significance.
In the aftermath of the war, in 1920, a military association primarily comprised of American veterans who had served in France during World War I was formed. They adopted the names "8/40" and "Forty and Eight." Among their ranks was a soldier who had crafted a coverall jacket bearing a conspicuous number on the back. This jacket served as a testament to his wartime experiences, where he had been tasked with managing and safeguarding the invaluable horses that played a crucial role in World War I within these boxcars. Though the attire was not commonly worn locally, it can be seen as a fitting tribute to the boxcar's unique history.
The journey of this boxcar itself traversed tumultuous times. Following the conclusion of World War I, the wagons that once transported American troops to the East found themselves back in France but were later seized during the German occupation. Subsequently, they were repurposed to transport prisoners of war to the Eastern Front. Then, with the outbreak of World War II, France was liberated by American forces who reentered the fray, bringing the "Forty-and-Eights" boxcars back to their homeland. Post-war, these boxcars were bestowed with the name "Mercy Train" and were generously donated to various states in Jeonju as a gesture of gratitude for America's unwavering dedication. A plaque on the boxcar's wall bore the inscription "Hommes 40 Chevaux 8," translating to "40 people and 8 horses" in French, serving as a lasting reminder of its remarkable history. And, as an incredible coincidental sidebar...the current headquarters of the 40/8 is located just a couple of miles from us in Indianapolis.
That's the history, but let's talk about the garments. This jacket is something so new and fresh to the shop and we couldn't help but fall in love with the feel and fit. It's a beautifully light-ounce selvedge fabric in a left-hand twill. The real unique part about this denim is that it's mostly indigo. Usually in classic jeans, you see roughly half indigo on the exterior and half of some other color on the interior. This fabric has a wonderful flecky, marled texture when you turn it inside out that is more reminiscent of a double-dyed fabric. The other rich part about this fabric is how easily it will soften. In a left-hand twill, more of the weft is exposed due to the style of twist that happens, and it makes the break-in that much easier. The contrast stitching and extra pockets on these garments are all things that we can't get enough of. This jacket is wonderful open, half-buttoned, or buttoned all the way to the top. It is a rare piece of reproduction history that we're super proud to be carrying.
The American Expeditionary Forces (AEF) played a pivotal role in the latter stages of World War I. Their journey to the Eastern Front involved a unique mode of transport known as the "Forty-and-Eights," railroad carts ingeniously converted into boxcars. These boxcars were labeled with a distinctive "40 plate," signifying their capacity for carrying "8 horses and 40 people." This intriguing symbol would go on to hold special significance.
In the aftermath of the war, in 1920, a military association primarily comprised of American veterans who had served in France during World War I was formed. They adopted the names "8/40" and "Forty and Eight." Among their ranks was a soldier who had crafted a coverall jacket bearing a conspicuous number on the back. This jacket served as a testament to his wartime experiences, where he had been tasked with managing and safeguarding the invaluable horses that played a crucial role in World War I within these boxcars. Though the attire was not commonly worn locally, it can be seen as a fitting tribute to the boxcar's unique history.
The journey of this boxcar itself traversed tumultuous times. Following the conclusion of World War I, the wagons that once transported American troops to the East found themselves back in France but were later seized during the German occupation. Subsequently, they were repurposed to transport prisoners of war to the Eastern Front. Then, with the outbreak of World War II, France was liberated by American forces who reentered the fray, bringing the "Forty-and-Eights" boxcars back to their homeland. Post-war, these boxcars were bestowed with the name "Mercy Train" and were generously donated to various states in Jeonju as a gesture of gratitude for America's unwavering dedication. A plaque on the boxcar's wall bore the inscription "Hommes 40 Chevaux 8," translating to "40 people and 8 horses" in French, serving as a lasting reminder of its remarkable history. And, as an incredible coincidental sidebar...the current headquarters of the 40/8 is located just a couple of miles from us in Indianapolis.
That's the history, but let's talk about the garments. This jacket is something so new and fresh to the shop and we couldn't help but fall in love with the feel and fit. It's a beautifully light-ounce selvedge fabric in a left-hand twill. The real unique part about this denim is that it's mostly indigo. Usually in classic jeans, you see roughly half indigo on the exterior and half of some other color on the interior. This fabric has a wonderful flecky, marled texture when you turn it inside out that is more reminiscent of a double-dyed fabric. The other rich part about this fabric is how easily it will soften. In a left-hand twill, more of the weft is exposed due to the style of twist that happens, and it makes the break-in that much easier. The contrast stitching and extra pockets on these garments are all things that we can't get enough of. This jacket is wonderful open, half-buttoned, or buttoned all the way to the top. It is a rare piece of reproduction history that we're super proud to be carrying.
Warehouse & Co. - Lot 1223 - Forty and Eight Horse Guard Pants - Indigo.
The American Expeditionary Forces (AEF) played a pivotal role in the latter stages of World War I. Their journey to the Eastern Front involved a unique mode of transport known as the "Forty-and-Eights," railroad carts ingeniously converted into boxcars. These boxcars were labeled with a distinctive "40 plate," signifying their capacity for carrying "8 horses and 40 people." This intriguing symbol would go on to hold special significance.
In the aftermath of the war, in 1920, a military association primarily comprised of American veterans who had served in France during World War I was formed. They adopted the names "8/40" and "Forty and Eight." Among their ranks was a soldier who had crafted a coverall jacket bearing a conspicuous number on the back. This jacket served as a testament to his wartime experiences, where he had been tasked with managing and safeguarding the invaluable horses that played a crucial role in World War I within these boxcars. Though the attire was not commonly worn locally, it can be seen as a fitting tribute to the boxcar's unique history.
The journey of this boxcar itself traversed tumultuous times. Following the conclusion of World War I, the wagons that once transported American troops to the East found themselves back in France but were later seized during the German occupation. Subsequently, they were repurposed to transport prisoners of war to the Eastern Front. Then, with the outbreak of World War II, France was liberated by American forces who reentered the fray, bringing the "Forty-and-Eights" boxcars back to their homeland. Post-war, these boxcars were bestowed with the name "Mercy Train" and were generously donated to various states in Jeonju as a gesture of gratitude for America's unwavering dedication. A plaque on the boxcar's wall bore the inscription "Hommes 40 Chevaux 8," translating to "40 people and 8 horses" in French, serving as a lasting reminder of its remarkable history. And, as an incredible coincidental sidebar...the current headquarters of the 40/8 is located just a couple of miles from us in Indianapolis.
That's the history, but let's talk about the garments. This pant is something so new and fresh to the shop and we couldn't help but fall in love with the feel and fit. It's a beautifully light-ounce selvedge fabric in a left-hand twill. The real unique part about this denim is that it's mostly indigo. Usually in classic jeans, you see roughly half indigo on the exterior and half of some other color on the interior. This fabric has a wonderful flecky, marled texture when you turn it inside out that is more reminiscent of a double-dyed fabric. The other rich part about this fabric is how easily it will soften. In a left-hand twill, more of the weft is exposed due to the style of twist that happens, and it makes the break-in that much easier. The contrast stitching and extra pockets on these garments are all things that we can't get enough of. These also might be the most fit-friendly pants we've ever seen as you can wear them with a belt, suspenders, or cinch the back. This is a rare piece of reproduction history that we're super proud to be carrying.
The American Expeditionary Forces (AEF) played a pivotal role in the latter stages of World War I. Their journey to the Eastern Front involved a unique mode of transport known as the "Forty-and-Eights," railroad carts ingeniously converted into boxcars. These boxcars were labeled with a distinctive "40 plate," signifying their capacity for carrying "8 horses and 40 people." This intriguing symbol would go on to hold special significance.
In the aftermath of the war, in 1920, a military association primarily comprised of American veterans who had served in France during World War I was formed. They adopted the names "8/40" and "Forty and Eight." Among their ranks was a soldier who had crafted a coverall jacket bearing a conspicuous number on the back. This jacket served as a testament to his wartime experiences, where he had been tasked with managing and safeguarding the invaluable horses that played a crucial role in World War I within these boxcars. Though the attire was not commonly worn locally, it can be seen as a fitting tribute to the boxcar's unique history.
The journey of this boxcar itself traversed tumultuous times. Following the conclusion of World War I, the wagons that once transported American troops to the East found themselves back in France but were later seized during the German occupation. Subsequently, they were repurposed to transport prisoners of war to the Eastern Front. Then, with the outbreak of World War II, France was liberated by American forces who reentered the fray, bringing the "Forty-and-Eights" boxcars back to their homeland. Post-war, these boxcars were bestowed with the name "Mercy Train" and were generously donated to various states in Jeonju as a gesture of gratitude for America's unwavering dedication. A plaque on the boxcar's wall bore the inscription "Hommes 40 Chevaux 8," translating to "40 people and 8 horses" in French, serving as a lasting reminder of its remarkable history. And, as an incredible coincidental sidebar...the current headquarters of the 40/8 is located just a couple of miles from us in Indianapolis.
That's the history, but let's talk about the garments. This pant is something so new and fresh to the shop and we couldn't help but fall in love with the feel and fit. It's a beautifully light-ounce selvedge fabric in a left-hand twill. The real unique part about this denim is that it's mostly indigo. Usually in classic jeans, you see roughly half indigo on the exterior and half of some other color on the interior. This fabric has a wonderful flecky, marled texture when you turn it inside out that is more reminiscent of a double-dyed fabric. The other rich part about this fabric is how easily it will soften. In a left-hand twill, more of the weft is exposed due to the style of twist that happens, and it makes the break-in that much easier. The contrast stitching and extra pockets on these garments are all things that we can't get enough of. These also might be the most fit-friendly pants we've ever seen as you can wear them with a belt, suspenders, or cinch the back. This is a rare piece of reproduction history that we're super proud to be carrying.
Post O'Alls - 3312-HBB - E-Z DND Herringbone Denim - Black.
Our long-awaited partnership with Post O'Alls has finally come to fruition. As we transition into a Post Heritage version of James Dant, one that doesn't shirk the traditional ways of manufacturing, but does accept newer, more contemporary silhouettes...it only makes sense to work with a brand like Post O'Alls. Since its origin in 1993, this brand has been taking iconic American silhouettes and giving them a little extra. In the more recent past, this started to translate to a more modern form of garments. In a world full of "perfect fits" they were offering roomy silhouettes that drape perfectly but don't have to stick to your biceps to look good. It may not be what "Post Overalls" stands for, but we like to think of the "Post" as meaning "after" and the "O'Alls" as meaning traditional heritage. They've evolved beyond the ideals of American menswear into a genre of their own.
One of the things we got most excited about for FW23 was the opportunity to broaden our pant horizons both metaphorically and literally. These straight-leg dungarees from the 90s give you an incredible alternative to all-raw-denim-all-the-time. It's a really impeccable work of design that fits straight away with a non-outseam construction. This is the first time we've seen a pant using this construction and it hooked us from the moment we put it on. The black herringbone fabric adds an extra layer of texture to a pant already jam-packed with details. We particularly like the open-style work pockets and the flat drawstrings accompanying this piece. Our favorite detail has to be the fabric though. You can really see the difference in color in the herringbone when you flip the cuff revealing the lighter gray mirrored on the back of the fabric. These are a work of art.
Our long-awaited partnership with Post O'Alls has finally come to fruition. As we transition into a Post Heritage version of James Dant, one that doesn't shirk the traditional ways of manufacturing, but does accept newer, more contemporary silhouettes...it only makes sense to work with a brand like Post O'Alls. Since its origin in 1993, this brand has been taking iconic American silhouettes and giving them a little extra. In the more recent past, this started to translate to a more modern form of garments. In a world full of "perfect fits" they were offering roomy silhouettes that drape perfectly but don't have to stick to your biceps to look good. It may not be what "Post Overalls" stands for, but we like to think of the "Post" as meaning "after" and the "O'Alls" as meaning traditional heritage. They've evolved beyond the ideals of American menswear into a genre of their own.
One of the things we got most excited about for FW23 was the opportunity to broaden our pant horizons both metaphorically and literally. These straight-leg dungarees from the 90s give you an incredible alternative to all-raw-denim-all-the-time. It's a really impeccable work of design that fits straight away with a non-outseam construction. This is the first time we've seen a pant using this construction and it hooked us from the moment we put it on. The black herringbone fabric adds an extra layer of texture to a pant already jam-packed with details. We particularly like the open-style work pockets and the flat drawstrings accompanying this piece. Our favorite detail has to be the fabric though. You can really see the difference in color in the herringbone when you flip the cuff revealing the lighter gray mirrored on the back of the fabric. These are a work of art.
Post O'Alls - 1101-MB - No. 1 Jacket Vintage Moleskin - Black.
Our long-awaited partnership with Post O'Alls has finally come to fruition. As we transition into a Post Heritage version of James Dant, one that doesn't shirk the traditional ways of manufacturing, but does accept newer, more contemporary silhouettes...it only makes sense to work with a brand like Post O'Alls. Since its origin in 1993, this brand has been taking iconic American silhouettes and giving them a little extra. In the more recent past, this started to translate to a more modern form of garments. In a world full of "perfect fits" they were offering roomy silhouettes that drape perfectly but don't have to stick to your biceps to look good. It may not be what "Post Overalls" stands for, but we like to think of the "Post" as meaning "after" and the "O'Alls" as meaning traditional heritage. They've evolved beyond the ideals of American menswear into a genre of their own.
The No. 1 is the "Icon" piece from the collection. This jacket is known far and wide and tends to be the first item to sell out in every season. We've seen every variation of a railroad jacket, but none that make it feel this modern. With the incredible moleskin fabric that reads like a super flat jungle cloth and all-black accessories, this becomes incredibly easy to dress up. We personally like it layered over the top of the Chinois. The accents to this piece include those gorgeous black sheen-coated buttons and the only hint of color is a dual-tone double chain stitch on the interior. Every inch of this garment is well thought through. You can feel it from the moment you pick it up to the moment you put it on. It's been in the lineup since 1993 as shown in the illustration in the pictures.
Our long-awaited partnership with Post O'Alls has finally come to fruition. As we transition into a Post Heritage version of James Dant, one that doesn't shirk the traditional ways of manufacturing, but does accept newer, more contemporary silhouettes...it only makes sense to work with a brand like Post O'Alls. Since its origin in 1993, this brand has been taking iconic American silhouettes and giving them a little extra. In the more recent past, this started to translate to a more modern form of garments. In a world full of "perfect fits" they were offering roomy silhouettes that drape perfectly but don't have to stick to your biceps to look good. It may not be what "Post Overalls" stands for, but we like to think of the "Post" as meaning "after" and the "O'Alls" as meaning traditional heritage. They've evolved beyond the ideals of American menswear into a genre of their own.
The No. 1 is the "Icon" piece from the collection. This jacket is known far and wide and tends to be the first item to sell out in every season. We've seen every variation of a railroad jacket, but none that make it feel this modern. With the incredible moleskin fabric that reads like a super flat jungle cloth and all-black accessories, this becomes incredibly easy to dress up. We personally like it layered over the top of the Chinois. The accents to this piece include those gorgeous black sheen-coated buttons and the only hint of color is a dual-tone double chain stitch on the interior. Every inch of this garment is well thought through. You can feel it from the moment you pick it up to the moment you put it on. It's been in the lineup since 1993 as shown in the illustration in the pictures.
Post O'Alls - 3909B-VTI - Post Chinois DV Vintage Twill - Indigo.
Our long-awaited partnership with Post O'Alls has finally come to fruition. As we transition into a Post Heritage version of James Dant, one that doesn't shirk the traditional ways of manufacturing, but does accept newer, more contemporary silhouettes...it only makes sense to work with a brand like Post O'Alls. Since its origin in 1993, this brand has been taking iconic American silhouettes and giving them a little extra. In the more recent past, this started to translate to a more modern form of garments. In a world full of "perfect fits" they were offering roomy silhouettes that drape perfectly but don't have to stick to your biceps to look good. It may not be what "Post Overalls" stands for, but we like to think of the "Post" as meaning "after" and the "O'Alls" as meaning traditional heritage. They've evolved beyond the ideals of American menswear into a genre of their own.
One of the first items on the list that drew our attention was the Chinois. The question was collar or no collar. Well for this first round, we opted for the collarless version which felt a little more fun for layering. This is a fusion of vintage French China and pre-war French Workwear. This is going to wear like your favorite French chore coat but with all the styling of a kung-fu shirt. Those micro monkey knots are such a beautiful, functional addition to the piece. And the fabric is to die for. It's super lightweight with that nice vintage hand-feel we all look for in a well-worn cotton piece. We think this is one of the most versatile items in their lineup as it can be worn as a shirt, outerwear, and cardigan.
Our long-awaited partnership with Post O'Alls has finally come to fruition. As we transition into a Post Heritage version of James Dant, one that doesn't shirk the traditional ways of manufacturing, but does accept newer, more contemporary silhouettes...it only makes sense to work with a brand like Post O'Alls. Since its origin in 1993, this brand has been taking iconic American silhouettes and giving them a little extra. In the more recent past, this started to translate to a more modern form of garments. In a world full of "perfect fits" they were offering roomy silhouettes that drape perfectly but don't have to stick to your biceps to look good. It may not be what "Post Overalls" stands for, but we like to think of the "Post" as meaning "after" and the "O'Alls" as meaning traditional heritage. They've evolved beyond the ideals of American menswear into a genre of their own.
One of the first items on the list that drew our attention was the Chinois. The question was collar or no collar. Well for this first round, we opted for the collarless version which felt a little more fun for layering. This is a fusion of vintage French China and pre-war French Workwear. This is going to wear like your favorite French chore coat but with all the styling of a kung-fu shirt. Those micro monkey knots are such a beautiful, functional addition to the piece. And the fabric is to die for. It's super lightweight with that nice vintage hand-feel we all look for in a well-worn cotton piece. We think this is one of the most versatile items in their lineup as it can be worn as a shirt, outerwear, and cardigan.
